Agra, India: The Taj & Tasty Treats

Ohhhh Agra.  It’s one of the main tourist spots in India, because it is the city that holds “The Luminous Tomb”: The Taj Mahal.

But actually, my favourite site in Agra was something else: Fatehpur Sikri — a World Heritage site built by the Mughal emperor Akbar in the 16th century.

I have to admit that before this trip, I didn’t know anything about the Mughal Empire, and now I am so hooked!  I’m reading a book of historical fiction about the building of the Taj Mahal in Indu Sundaresan’s Shadow Princess. I am learning tons and loving all the tidbits about the Taj Mahal – a place I got to visit!

But 3 generations before Shah Jahan (who built the Taj Mahal) came the Emperor Akbar, and he built this city, which was the court for 3 months before it was abandoned forever.    Lucky for us tourists, because it left the city in such good condition that we are able to see how they lived.

I loved all the architectural details.  The best part for me was that the Emperor had 3 wives (one Muslim, one Hindu, and one Christian from Portugal), and so the buildings featured architecture from each of their traditions.

For example, the (Muslim-influenced) onion domes:

And the Hindu symbols (that look like the Star of David, but have a flower in the centre):

And many of the elements were fused together in the carvings into the red sandstone (including even some Celtic designs!):

And I appreciated the special platform created just for the musicians:

But I suppose I can see why the Taj Mahal overshadows all of this gorgeous city for first place in the tourist destinations. First of all, it has a romantic story. Emperor Shah Jahan built it in the 17th century as a mausoleum in memory of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal.

Seeing as this is a food blog, I’ll leave you to read the (fascinating!) history over at the UNESCO page, and just show you pretty pictures.

This was my favourite part – the main gate made of red sandstone:

And around the doorway of the Taj itself, there are verses from the Quran inlaid with jasper or black marble into the carved white marble:

And all around the building (both inside and out!) there are beautiful flowers made of local semi-precious stones (jasper, jade, turquoise) inlaid using an herbal glue:

Akbar had wanted to build a black mosque for his future remains, so that he would eternally be with his darling wife, but his son overthrew him and exiled him to this palace — from where he had a view of the Taj Mahal.

Ah, the romance.

But I’m sure you’re here for the food — so behold!  Paratha with fresh mint leaves (alongside a couple of gorgeous veggie curries and a bit of steamed basmati rice)!!!

I think this was my favourite traditional bread of the trip!  (An interesting fusion bread report coming soon…)

This was a vegetable jalfrezi:

And have I mentioned the uttapam yet?  I think savoury pancakes might have been one of my biggest discoveries on the whole trip.  I can’t wait to invent a recipe over here for them.  Onions at breakfast?  Yes!

And I can’t leave you without a few desserts, like these beautiful condensed milk balls rolled in flaked coconut:

Or one of my favourites (and Pem‘s favourite!) – shrikand!  Shrikand is a yogurt and sugar custard flavoured with saffron.  And here it was served with pomegranate seeds.  What could be better?

The only possible improvement on dessert?  A cocktail with cardamom, of course!

Good job, Agra.  Entertaining, educational, and delicious.  I’ll totally be back.